Map of Trip-2006.
Map of Trip-2008.
Map of Trip-2009.
Map of Trip-2010.
Welcome to another month. When we left you in January we had just left
Inverell , heading to the NT. The first night we camped at Cobar,
next night Broken Hill and then onto Port Augusta. It was bloody hot,
but must say that we all slept well in the camper with our expensive
volt fans running all night. They might be $120.00 each, but if you can
sleep comfortably all night in that heat, they are worth twice
that. Each of these stops were one nighters,
pulling in each afternoon usually by 3.00pm which gave us time for a
swim and to wind down a little, ready for the next day. Next it was off
to Coober Pedy. This is one of our
favourite SA destinations, simply because it is so incredibly
different. On our
last trip we really wanted to stay underground, but as we were watching
our pennies we stayed in the caravan park. Not this time, for two
reasons. Firstly it was about 45 C and secondly as part of our contract
for working in the NT, all of our travel expenses are paid for, so
bring on the cool accommodation.
We did a drive around town and checked out all the underground motels,
but decided on the "Desert Cave" which is the big flash one in the
main street. They had a good deal on at the time and a nice big pool.
We had a two bedroom apartment that was fully underground and very
flash. While it certainly was novel, I am not sure it would do your
mental health any good living underground in the constant dark like a
mole, day in, day out. When all the lights were turned off it was
seriously very very dark, but it was also very cool, which was a
pleasant change from outside. We had a swim, had a cool ale in the
underground bar and headed to the local pizza and pasta shop straight
across the road. This is where the locals go for takeaways/dine-ins
and there was a constant stream of very colourful folk picking
up their orders while we had our meal. You would have to be a special
to live here on a permanent basis.
Now as you may be aware our life is a work in progress, living in
constant change. Well as you might have read last month we were heading
to Elliott, 750kms north of Alice Springs for 6-8 weeks work, prior to
doing the Simpson Desert. Well just after we arrived in Coober Pedy the
phone rang. There was now a problem with Elliott as nobody had thought
to check out the accommodation situation, with only a one room flat
available. Clearly that was not going to cut the mustard, so Jane had
to find us yet another destination. The next choice, Laramba was
as it is only 200kms up the Tanami (track) from Alice Springs, close to
back of the West McDonald Ranges. The Clinic manager was finishing up
after 4 years so I was being sent out to replace her until a permanent
replacement could be found.
Before heading to our new destination we had to detour to Yulara to
collect our gear that we had left there last year. A friend out there
had collected it all for us and taken it around to their house. We
arrived at Yulara late in the afternoon and went straight around
to the Fire Station, which is where we were staying. It was great to
see the Murphys again and it was great that we were able stay in the
station visitor's accommodation as it was very hot. We stayed with them
for 3 nights. The first night we went up to the Res club, which was
really good as there were heaps of people up there that we knew. The
next night a few people decided we should have a barbeque at the oval
to farewell the Parfitts. It was a really nice gesture and a nice night
with about 20 or so turning up. While it was sad to leave, we do have a
new adventure ahead that we would have missed out on if we had stayed
in Yulara. I think we will look back at this and be very grateful that
they stuffed us around and that we moved on. We can always go back
there in the future if we still wish to.
Our days were spent going through all our gear and deciding what to
keep and what to send home. I must say we nearly had a heart attack
when we first saw what we had left, but it wasn't actually that bad
it was packed properly. We ended up sending 2 packing boxes (small
tea-chest size) back to Bundaberg on Greyhound. Bus freight is a very
effective way to send small quantities of gear home.
So now with the camper repacked and the second solar panel fitted on
the top, it was off to Laramba after spending a night in Alice Springs
to get some groceries. Now Laramba is a little unusual. It is an
Indigenous Community of about 350
locals give or take a hundred or so. It is stuck right in the middle of
a 1.3 million hectare cattle property called Napperby. The Tilmouth
Well Roadhouse which is on the Tanami is owned by, and is part of the
property. There is currently 6,000 cattle on the property and just
prior to Christmas there was 11,000. That is a lot of cows.
There are 3 large diesel generators almost in our backyard that are
owned and managed by NT Power and Water. These engines use 5,000 litres
of diesel a week that costs over $1.50 a litre. That is over $7,500 a
week, just in diesel, just to make the power for a few houses. They are
a bit noisy but because they are going 24/7 after a while you don't
notice them. I think all of our air-conditioners are noisier.
Our house is amongst 3 others about 2 kms from the community towards
Station houses, where some other white fellas live. It is a large
3 bedroom, fully air-conditioned place with a large yard of green
grass and magnificent ghost gums. It is very comfortable. I did forget
to mention that for our first 2 weeks we did live in a very small Donga
that was hot, stunk and was so small we were falling over each other,
waiting for our house to become vacant.
Moving into the house was quite a relief, except that the solar hot
water had chucked in the towel, so out from Alice came two plumbers to
get it going. Then on the same day we noticed the toilet bowl would not
empty properly. Well by day 2 we had the toilet full of crap
(literally), with the water absolutely to the top of the bowl,
trickling onto the floor. What a bloody sight and the smell, well let's
not go there.
A few more distressed phone calls and finally some joy. After only one
night of using the back yard as a toilet (seeing Chris out there with
the headlight terrified a snake was going to bite her on the rear was
a classic) Kenny the crap doctor arrived with his pump truck and
finally the toilet level went back to normal. A few days later out came
the plumbers and the excavator and all new soakage trenches dug, with
the only casualty being one small tree.
Now that we have the luxury items like hot water and a flushing toilet
sorted, we can persue other interests.(Now we just have the odd power
failure and water going off.) Boy am I glad we are not paying
the bill for those repairs.
So what do we think of this place? It is actually a nice spot and is
growing on us all. There are very few other white fellas (and few that
really want to get to know) and while we are very comfortable, close to
the West McDonalds and close to Alice Springs (well only 2 hours) this
is not a place we will be at for very long. The locals are a very nice,
friendly and placid mob. There is a store in the community which sells
things and another at the Station that even has fast food (not that I
would eat it). We get mail once or twice a week, although we send a
into town most days, taking in patients that have appointments, so we
can always get things picked up.
So what are our plans. Changing, changing and changing. We had planned
to sit it out here until it got a tad cooler and then do the Simpson
Desert prior to heading over to Western Australia. We even had
friends, Pat and Roger from QLD coming with us until parts of QLD got
flooded, which in turn floods the channel country (around Longreach
way) which in turn floods
part of the country that we were going to cover. The best advice we
could get from the experts was that it could be many months before the
French Line to Birdsville would be open. So we were stuck with the
dilemma of do we wait here longer until it dries out a little, or do
desert later and head straight across to the West. Well let us think
for a micro second. Let's get going.
So at this stage we will be heading off from here on the 27th March,
via Kings Canyon where we will spend a few days with the Murphys and
then to Ayers Rock for a few days over Easter,
through Docker River and across to the West Coast on the "Great Central
Dirt Track Highway". We will then have
just on a month to make our way up to Broome and across the Gibb (River
Kalumburu where we have a 6 week work contract arranged, starting on
the 4th May. Following our stint
there we will have 2 weeks to wander back to Broome to meet up with the
Joiners for a month exploring the Kimberleys. We will then most likely
spend the next few months somewhere in the Kimberleys, hopefully around
So that is pretty much it. We are out here in the middle of nowhere,
making a few bucks and getting on top of a few jobs. I hate to say it
but sometimes having nothing to do can be a blessing, as we have caught
up on a tonne of jobs that we have been trying to get done for 12
We will leave here cashed up and caught up, which will be all good. I
am off call every second weekend which means heading off somewhere.
Last weekend we were off to Alice Springs again and next weekend we
will head off somewhere. It could be a lot worse. The location of this
place is pretty good. There are plenty of other places around where
there is just nowhere to go for weekends so we are fortunate.
So we are about to embark on what we are really good at, or at least
should be. Packing. It is amazing that when you unpack something
as small as a camper trailer and spread it out all over a house, the
house seems full. Bloody hell, I hope it does go back.
Stay tuned as we start the exciting trip west.
Until next month - Stay safe.