February 2011
Cover Page
Map of Trip-2006.
Map of Trip-2008.
Map of Trip-2009.
Map of Trip-2010.
Map of Trip-2011.
Hi
again. So what have we been up to in the land down, down under? As
planned we stayed in Derby at the cafe for a few days before heading
down to Hobart to meet with Tony (brother-in-law) and the yacht. We used the Derby time to get started
on the schoolwork while I did a few odd jobs around the cafe; while
Tony caught the bus to Hobart to get the boat sorted.
Derby is a tiny little place that is on a major tourist road between
Launceston and St. Helens. In its hey day it was a thriving town that
was supported by a tin mine. There is a brand new and very flash 'Tin
Mine Centre' that only recently opened that is well worth visiting (we
have not seen it yet, but will on our way back). The town has two pubs,
a small store, a mechanic, a few crafty shops and of course 'Berries
Cafe'. There is also an excellent free camp on the river with a well
maintained toilet block. The town now pretty much survives on the
tourist trade, and that only lasts for a few months over the summer.
Tassie Tourism is trying to encourage tourists to visit over the winter
months, but boy, you would have to be well set up for very chilly
weather.
So the boys did get a bit of schoolwork started but I am sure they
spent most of the time sitting in the cafe having milkshakes, muffins
and sampling all the other food. They were certainly getting very
spoilt by their Auntie Anne. Friday we all piled in our car and headed
to Hobart, only 200 kms but a 3.5 hours drive. As we were coming into
Hobart Chris got a text from her cousin who is a radio DJ. Next thing,
over the radio came a 'Welcome to my two cousins, Anne and Chris who
are visiting Hobart for a few days from Qld'. That is the sort of
welcome we expect upon our arrival.
The boys thought it was pretty special. We made our way straight to
Constitution Dock which is a part of Port Hobart. Now what a position
this is! For those of you who have been to Hobart, you will be very
familiar with this area. It is very much in the centre of the city
and very much the central hub. The yacht was moored right next to the
1930 historic lifting bridge and across from Mures Seafood restaurant
and only 300 metres from Salamanca Markets. There was a huge amount of
walk-by traffic as this is a very popular spot in downtown Hobart.
Drinks on the deck of
'Prime Time'
at Constitution Dock.
Saturday morning, us and almost the entire population of Hobart
made
their
way to the Salamanca Markets. Chris and I came to Hobart when
she was pregnant with Alex some 13 years ago. We only came for a week
and visiting the markets is part of the trip I remember from back then.
The markets now are much bigger and now also have a lot of fresh
produce which is nice. I do confess to being a bit of a market junkie
and enjoyed the few hours we spent looking at the crafts for sale. I am
pleased to say we bought very little except for some local produce and
a new lap top bag for
the princely sum of $10-00. Bargain. We had coffee, lunch and sat
around
and watched all the beautiful people walk by.
Harry's
boat
tours
around
the
dock
-
only
50
cents
a
ride.
What
a
bargain!
After walking all day we
then headed off on foot to Battery Point to a favourite restaurant of
Anne
and Tony's, Magic Curry. Lovely authentic Indian food and good service.
If in Hobart, they are worth a shot. As we walked home, into a coffee
shop for an ice-cream and then back to the boat for a night cap. The
boat is a 36 ft steel motor sailer. It has a mid-raised pilot house/
lounge area. It has an aft cabin (double bed) and a forward cabin
consisting of two
beds, galley and bathroom. There is plenty of storage and nice large
outside decks both fore and aft. There was plenty of room for the five
of us without getting under each other's feet.
The old 1930 'Opening Bridge' - Constitution Dock
Engine repairs on the 90 HP Perkins Diesel - that looks
fun, not.
The next few days were rather busy. For the past few weeks Tony
has
been having a few engine troubles with the boat. It started when he
had trouble
getting the engine to turn over. He first thought it was the batteries
or
battery connections. Then he thought it may be the starter motor, so
removed it, had it checked but all OK. Then he noticed water in the
oil, and lots of it. In fact he pumped out well over 15 litres from the
sump instead of the 8 litres there should be. I rang a few marine
engineers in Hobart and one came around and pulled out the oil cooler
as it was the most likely suspect. The motor in this boat is a 90 hp
Perkins diesel with a fresh water cooling system and a salt water heat
exchange. The oil cooler is surrounded by salt water as the cooling
source and they often get a leak so salt water can leak into the engine
and mix with the oil. It was OK and they had no more ideas so ditched
us. They recommended another guy who we rang and he came straight
around. It was now Tuesday and we had to be out of the marina by
Wednesday for the huge Wooden Boat Festival, due to start on the
weekend, but lots of setting up beforehand. The organisers came around
and
we told them our problem and they said they would have to tow us out.
Great! The new fella was pretty good and it was not too long before we
had
discovered the problem. The salt water was syphoning into the exhaust
from the salt water intake,
filling it up and then flowing into the exhaust manifold and into the
cylinder head and draining down into the sump. Tony is so lucky he
didn't bend a con rod or even worse. The mechanic put a non-return
valve
and a high loop in the salt water system and the problem was solved. We
did a few more oil changes and finally got the oil back to being clear
again. That of course meant we could motor out of the marina and not
be towed. Our last few days in Hobart were spent doing a bit of
shopping,
visiting Mt. Wellington, Chris cleaning out the galley, doing the
museum over and visiting
David's
(Chris's cousin) radio station. It was very interesting.
106.5 Ultra FM - their new DJ's. Sorry, and their old
one, David!!
Mt. Wellington - absolutely freezing, but what a view.
Down the track we will be back in Hobart in the van and
will
stay with David
and his
wife Clare. So Wednesday we headed off early morning and sailed to Port
Arthur. It was a 60 km sail across Storm Bay (aptly named) which was as
rough as,
probably around a 6 metre swell. While no-one vomited we did feel
somewhat
unwell for a few hours. Chris and Harry lay on the couch for the
duration not daring to move! They did manage to peer out of the window
every so often to take in the spectacular scenery, especially rounding
Cape Raoul. On our way across the bay we passed a very
large square rigger that was on its way to Hobart for the Wooden Boat
Festival. It looked amazing, all its sails up looking so proud on the
open seas. We said to Tony to sail close so we could get a good view.
Well, he sailed so close we could not get it all in the picture. In
fact
we were so close we could talk to the crew! Then it was into Port
Arthur where we anchored with the ruins of the penal colony in the
background.
The
Tall
Ships
on
their
way
to
the
'Wooden
Boat
Festival'
in
Hobart
There was also another tall ship moored there called the 'James
Craig' which is a well known ship (the last two photos above). What a
perfect night. The tall ship
lit up like a Christmas tree and Port Arthur behind. Can it actually
get any better than this? Next morning we went ashore and spent the day
exploring the famous Port Arthur. We did the tour, the boat trip and
listened to the audio commentary. There have been many changes since
we last visited including a new information centre. We had a great day
and only saw about 1/2 so we will be back in the van in the next few
weeks. We ended up buying a 2 year pass for an extra $12-00 per family
so we can
visit again for free. The boys were fascinated by how harsh things were
in the "Good Old Days". In England at age 4 years children could be
working
12 hours a day as chimney sweeps or messengers, age 7 they were classed
as an adult and could be tried
for crimes and age 8 years they could be transported to a penal colony.
At age 9 years they could be hung for crimes committed. They really
were the 'Good Old Days', and the kids today think they have it tough.
Port Arthur - looks nice and peaceful now. Not sure it
was back then.
Late in the arvo it was back to the boat; we all
put in a line and sat back to take in the ambience.
Well that didn't last long. Next thing the fish started to bite, as did
the squid. We didn't have squid jigs so we were teasing them to the
surface and then carefully getting a landing net under them. The boys
managed
to land four good size squid, as well as flathead, salmon and spotted
Trevalla.
Looks like it will be fish and chips for dinner tomorrow night! Harry
was very excited as it was his goal to at least catch one edible fish
while on the boat. He well and truly achieved that.
Catching
dinner
at
Port
Arthur
Our next mechanical issue on the boat was the toilet. I
had just
finished my
morning ablution and tried to flush the toilet but - dunny blocked! I
was then given the title 'Iron Turd'. The rule of the sea apparently is
- you block it, you fix it. Charming. So here I am, in the bathroom,
bailing out turds and dirty toilet water with an ice cream bucket and
emptying it overboard. Then I had my hand, yes no glove, down the
crapper trying to dislodge the offending iron turd.
The bowl refilled,
and again I had to bail it out. I am never going to crap again!!!! It
looked like I was going to have to pull the macerator apart and clean
it out. Sensational. Next morning we pulled into the public jetty at
Port Arthur to get rid of the rubbish and fill up the water tanks. I
then had the bright idea of sticking the hose down the dunny and
flushing it out. Well that didn't work. The bowl filled and again I had
to bail it out, now with 24 hr old turds floating around. It's getting
worse!
Again I tried and again the bowl filled. Give me strength! Last try and
the macerator sputtered and spurted and started to pump out. There is a
god. I
have
been spared.
Toilet issues dispensed with and then we had anchor winch problems. The
winch would pull up the anchor but we couldn't get the anchor down.
Tony and I pulled the winch apart while having a few red wines and
finally worked out and discovered the problem and were able to fix
it. Let me tell you it was more fun than the toilet debarkle. Next to
cause us grief was the little 2.5 hp outboard on the rubber inflatable
tender. We snapped a shear pin in the prop and of course didn't have a
spare so we had to fashion one out of a split pin, until we could buy
the
real thing.
Port Arthur historical buildings
We left Port Arthur and sailed around the corner to an anchorage
called
Stinky Bay, near
the
'Fox and Hound' Hotel for a schoolwork day. Tony and I walked a few
kms back to the little township of Port Arthur and grabbed a few
groceries that we needed and on the way back collected a kilo of
blackberries from a bush on the side of the road. They were
magnificent, so sweet. Tony had some friends, Ian and Margaret from NSW
who just happened to be in the area so they came down to the boat for
dinner.
Ian and Margaret visiting - Great lunch. Thank you!
Next day we sailed back out into Storm Bay (even bigger seas
than a
few days previous for about an hour or more - Chris was not happy) then
between
Tasman Island and Cape Pillar. We then sailed across Munroe Bight in
much better conditions, sighting 'The Lanterns', rock formations
including the Totem Pole and Candlestick (which people actually rock
climb - mad buggers!) to Fortescue Bay. Ian joined us for this
leg while Margaret kindly went and bought lunch for us all and then met
us at the boat ramp/national park campground. She can come to lunch
anytime. We had the most gourmet of all gourmet lunches. Smoked salmon,
smoked trout, every cheese known to man,
pates, breads, biscuits and wine. What an absolute feast in the most
beautiful bay you could imagine. Thanks guys. While we were taking Ian
and Margaret back to the shore we chatted to a diver who was just
getting out of the water. He was a recreational diver looking for
abalone and crayfish. Tony offered to take him in the yacht out to some
deeper water, an offer he took up. He scored a few cray and abalone and
gave us an abalone to cook up. We have had them before and while they
are just OK, you would have to wonder why they are worth so much when
exported OS.
.
Fortescue Bay and a few nice abalone
We then motored 10
minutes to Canoe Bay which is a protected anchorage tucked in behind
an old shipwreck. Harry again went mad catching salmon that were
flying all over the boat. Harry has an interesting technique for
landing
fish. He yanks on the rod and catapults them out of the water with much
speed - splat, onto the deck, roof, window or mast of the boat. That
will be breakfast in the morning.
Sunday morning and we ducked around the corner back to Fortescue
Bay as I wanted to talk to the rangers about the campground and to buy
an annual national parks pass. They have a similar system to WA with
their parks pass. At $96-00 it's not bad value when you consider they
charge $24-00 per vehicle per day entry to any national park. I also
got a pass for the boat (all included for the same price) which will be
handy as we were heading to Maria (pronounced Mariah) Island and
Wineglass Bay that are both national parks and require an annual permit
or
payment.
We then moved on for another 60 km day arriving at Maria
Island and moored for the night at Riedle Bay. It
was an interesting sail with plenty of wildlife to be seen. We saw a
colony of seals on a rock ledge, then a huge pod of dolphins, maybe
as many as 50-100. Every so often a dozen or so would break away and
surf the waves of our bow. They came and went for about 30 minutes
which very much kept us entertained. They really are a beautiful,
gentle and graceful creature of the sea. Every so often on the trip we
would spot the odd seal, laying on its back, floating along with a
fish in its fins. The next morning we sailed around the corner and
moored in a small bay at the old township of
Darlington on the northern end of Maria to explore the remains of the
penal settlement
that was used at the same time as Port Arthur. This is a much smaller
turn-out than Port Arthur but still very impressive. As long as you
have a national parks pass it is completely free. This is a small
island that has a very interesting past. Maria Island started as a
convict
penal colony in 1825 and closed in 1832. For the next ten years it was
used for lots of reasons, none of which proved very successful. It
re-opened again as a convict
penal colony in 1842 and closed permanently in 1850. In 1852 it was
used for grazing before an Italian, Diego Bernacchi leased the land
(for 10 cents a year) and
planned to make wine, silk and cement. Grapes by the acre grew well
on the island, but by the end of the century his empire began to
falter until all production ceased. The island reverted to a small
fishing community and Darlington became a rustic retreat for a few
holiday makers. After World War 1 the timber milling industry began and
the cement production re-commenced, and the population on the island
increased to 500. In the 1960’s the Government bought back the land and
turned it into a national park. Many of the original buildings have
been
beautifully preserved and some restored to their original state. You
can actually go and stay in one of the penitentiary rooms for $50-00 a
family per night. No power, a wood stove and possibly a few ghostly
stories to be told, but nice, comfortable beds supplied. We spent the
day walking around, reading all the info and sitting in the old Coffee
Palace listening to an audio from the late 1800's. If you closed your
eyes and occasionally glanced around the beautifully preserved dining
room you found
yourself shifting back in time, and really feeling a part of the era.We
even had a geology lesson with some fossilised cliffs, showing many
shells and rocks embedded within.
The sky was clear, it was warm and the water the most beautiful
turquoise blue. A fantastic day out.
Maria Island National Park (prounounced Mariah)
Late afternoon we pulled up anchor
and motored a few
miles towards the mainland to Triabunna, which is a very quaint seaside
coastal town. We rafted up next to a crayboat at the wharf and
refuelled, filled up with fresh water and recharged all the batteries
with shore power. We found a laundromat and did a load of washing while
having a
coffee across the road at the bakery. This is the life. Then we were
walking past the hotel (now we are talking a tiny town, 5 shops, one
pub and a servo) and Chris yells out and runs into the public bar. Well
bugger me. Chris glanced in the bar, saw Melody (works at the same
school as Chris in Bundaberg) and her husband Neil (who works at the
same hospital in Bundy that I did). Now tell me, what is the chance of
that. We chatted to them for a while and then headed back to the boat.
It really is a very small world.
Next morning (Tuesday 15th) we left the
Triabunna
marina and headed
north into a northerly wind that was reasonably unpleasant to Freycinet
National Park. We had originally planned to make it to Wineglass Bay
but instead pulled up stumps at Brian's Corner (around the other side
of the peninsular) as it was nearing 'wine
o'clock'. This was not the most protected of anchorages and we did rock
and roll a bit throughout the night. Next morning we were up nice and
early to head to Wineglass Bay. We thought the sail was going to be
relatively calm but it turned out being a rather nasty N/E which
resulted in a very sloppy unpleasant swell. Chris really did not enjoy
it (scared not sick) and we pulled into a very cloudy, rainy, choppy,
brown and rough Wineglass Bay. Believe me it looked nothing like all
the pictures. We got off the boat between showers and walked along the
beach. Now here is a strange feeling. As we have been on the boat now
for two weeks we have all become very accustomed to the rolling and
rocking. Now even in unpleasant seas we have not been getting sick,
until we get back on the land. Then we suffered 'land sickness' where
we actually felt nauseated from being on the land. It's like a reverse
sea sickness. Most bizarre.
The next step to complete our trip is a 12 hour sail from Wineglass to
St. Helens. The weather was looking OK so we planned to head off early
Friday. Chris was not so keen so planned for her sister Anne to drive
down and pick up her and Harry. Then Alex had second thoughts about the
long sail so he also decided to go home by car. Tony was a bit worried
as Alex has been his number one crew. How are we going to get the
sails up now?? Thursday we woke to a very heavy sea fog which lifted to
a beautiful sunny day, bay flat and that magnificent turquoise blue
you see in the photos. The walk to the lookout over Wineglass Bay
took about an hour and
then Chris and the boys walked off towards the carpark to meet Anne. It
was a pretty tough steep uphill walk and
while it is pretty, I didn't think it was as good as I had expected. It
was a little overcast by the time we made it to the lookout so I will
have to reserve my judgement until I
see it one day in full sun. We will be revisiting here in a few weeks
on our way down the coast in the caravan as there are a few other bits
we are yet to see. There will be a few photos then, hopefully with the
sun shining.
Wineglass Bay at
it's worst. Hope it is better in a few weeks time!
It was back to the boat for me to do a bit of engine
maintenance with
Tony; fuel filters, grease the prop shaft etc. before heading off for
the 12 hr slog first thing Friday morning. We were tossing up whether
to do a night sail on Thursday night or go with the original Friday day
sail plan. The winds looked better (S/E) for Friday so at 0400 I was up
preparing the boat (as all good crew members do!! Actually a mozzie
woke
me and I couldn't get back to sleep) and we set sail before
sun-up
for the 52 nautical miles (100 kms) averaging about 7 knots for
the
entire trip. The wind was as expected and the sea not too bad so we
made
good time. We arrived at the St. Helens bar at 1400 which was
unfortunately getting on for low tide and there were waves crashing
over the bar. It was not a pretty sight. Shortly after we arrived two
large power cruisers arrived (about 45 ft each) with one deciding to
sit it out for a few hours and wait for a bit more water with the other
giving it a go. Well half way across the bar he hit bottom and stopped.
Luckily a big wave came through and hit him straight on the stern and
pushed him forward into slightly deeper water. At that stage we chose
also to sit it out. The swell was large and we bounced around like a
cork which was annoying as it was so hard to do anything except have a
snooze, which I did. At about 1700 we upped anchor and in we went,
complete with life jackets on (the law states you must wear life
jackets for all bar crossings, but let me tell you it does not fill you
with confidence when you are handed one). We set off into the swell and
chop, sat on the edge of no return and waited a few minutes for a break
in the sets of waves and off we went. The old Perkins was flat out as
we surfed down one wave with another chasing us from behind. Luckily it
was all over in a few minutes with us safely over and in smooth waters.
We did hit bottom on the way down the channel to the marina, but
managed
to plough our way through, cleaning the barnicles off the keel on the
way through.
St. Helens is another pretty seaside town
with the
marina almost the
focus of the town. We pulled into Tony's berth at the floating marina
and tied off 'Prime Time' for the last time. We have been on board
exactly two weeks. The trip has been absolutely brilliant and a great
opportunity for all of us. While the boat is not huge (36 ft) it is
comfortable and considering we were actually on the boat most of the
time, there were no issues. To see the east coast of Tasmania from the
ocean is certainly not something many get to see. There were so many
special times it is hard to narrow them down to just a few. We loved
sitting on the boat at Constitution Dock, watching the world go by,
sailing into Port Arthur was special, as was Maria Island. The cliffs
and rock formations along the way were breathtaking. Fortescue Bay,
having a pod of dolphins playing at the bow of the boat and passing
tall ships on their way to Hobart for the Wooden Boat Festival are
things we will all remember. Was there any negatives I hear you mumble?
No, not one except the sail had to come to an end. No-one got sick and
we all adapted to life at sea better than I thought.
Friday night after securing the boat we headed across the road to the
pub for dinner and then back to watch some AFL (NAB Cup) before hitting
the sack. Saturday was pack-up and get off and clean up the boat day,
followed by the markets and the drive back to Derby and the caravan.
Well that didn't quite go to plan. We woke Saturday to rain, and a lot
of
it. In fact it rained so much that St. Helens actually flooded. The
main
street was closed, shops inundated and fire trucks were there trying to
pump out the water. As you can see from the photo it was somewhat
miserable. To make it worse the car was parked what seemed to be miles
from the boat. I did about 20 trips back and forth until the car was
fully packed and then, the rain stopped. You would have to be joking!!!
As wet as ten shags we all got in the car for the hour trip back to
Derby and our little caravan. I must say it was good to be back in the
van, our own bed and space. The boat trip had been absolutely
sensational and we felt sad that it had come to an
end. We would all love to do something like it again in the future. I
would even consider buying a boat like Tony's. I can just see us, six
months in the van, six months in the boat. And you think I am joking!
We all worked fairly hard when we got back to Derby, washing clothes,
unpacking and repacking. We planned to move on the next day otherwise
another day would slip by and we only have a month or two of good
weather ahead of us. Sunday and the beginning of
our fourth week in Tasmania saw us finally packed up and
moving on from Derby. We actually didn't get away until about 1430 and
only planned a quick trip back to St. Helens to have a good look around
and then up to the Bay of Fires. Now
let
me
tell
you
a funny story. When we were leaving the boat on Saturday Chris
brought out two Coles plastic bags full of rubbish. Next to them she
placed another Coles plastic bag full of fresh fruit and veg (to be
kept) and an abalone shell that we had collected from Fortescue Bay
that
I had spent ages cleaning all the gunk off. So I picked up all the
bags, assuming they were all rubbish (as I had been not been told
differently, although I am told I was!!! He was - Ed) and took them all
off to
the rubbish bin. When we got back
to the van Chris was running around looking for this bag of food,
finally working out what had happened. She was most concerned about
losing the abalone shell, not the $30-00 worth of fruit and veg that
met its demise. So on Sunday, when we arrived in St. Helens we thought
we would go to the bin (at the marina) and see if we could recover the
shell. I parked the van so we could not be seen from the street (or so
I thought) and we started pulling rubbish bags out of the bin and
piling it up on the ground until I pulled out a bag full of revolting,
foul smelling meat. I jumped back and looked around to see a police car
that had pulled up and two cops watching us. We quickly put all the
bags
back in the bin, washed our hands and did a quick exit, stage left. Sad
part is we were almost down to the bag so still have no abalone shell.
We did get a good laugh about it later. After the bin episode, we snuck
into the local IGA hoping we wouldn't be identified. We grabbed some
replacement fruit and veg and headed off to one of the many free camps
around the town. Now there is a huge choice here. You can stay in the
park in the middle of town or head out only a few kms to the first of
about six coastal reserves. These are so good, huge areas, well
maintained complete with pit toilets. We went to Moulting Bay which is
not even 5 minutes from town. We got a great spot that will do us
nicely for a few nights.
Saint
Columba
Falls
-
highest
in
Tasmania
Anchor
Stamper
-
old
tin
mine
1882
to
1996
Next day (Monday 21st) we headed off for a
short road trip to St. Columba Falls, Halls Falls and the Anchor
Stamper. St Columba Falls at 90 metres are the highest falls in
Tasmania. After the Saturday rain the falls were gushing with more
force than usual. They were very impressive. Halls Falls were a longer
walk but not as impressive but still worth the effort. Next just a few
kms down the road is the Anchor Stamper. Chris insisted that we see
this while the rest of us were less than convinced that this was in
fact something we really needed to see. I am only the lowly driver so
off to the stamper we went. I hate it when I have to eat humble pie as
it was actually very interesting. This was an old tin mine
that first started in the late 1800's. It is now pretty much an
overgrown tropical forest with a few remaining relics of this colourful
past. The big thing you can see in the pictures above is an old rock
crusher
that was initially powered by a huge water wheel that required 10 tonne
of flowing water to turn it one revolution. Getting enough water to run
it was a huge issue and it was eventually powered by a diesel engine.
The plant went broke a few times and re-opened until it was finally
closed for the last time in 1996. It looked like it had closed a
hundred years ago and actually looked like a set fom a Jurassic Park
movie. Very interesting indeed and well worth a look (I tried to tell
her it was going to be good).
The
Bay
of
Fires
-
what
a
campsite.
Million
dollar view for free.
Tuesday up late as it was bloody freezing, we believe around 6C,
due to
a cold front that had moved in. It was a beautiful, sunny, warm day so
we
planned to do the shops over in St. Helens and then go out to the Bay
of
Fires and have a look around. The beaches and associated rock
formations here are amazing. The 'Bay of Fires' was named by an early
explorer Captain Furneaux who saw smoke from Aboriginal
fires from his boat. We thought it may have been because of the orange
colouration (lichen) over the rocks above high water mark (clearly we
were wrong). It was around mid-afternoon when we had a look at the
second beach, Swimcart Beach. Now this
one was special. Huge camping area along the foreshore extending about
a km. The sites are large and private, some with million dollar views.
We drove around and found what we thought was the best site here,
empty.
We looked at each other and said, 'Thats ours'. We quickly drove back
to
the van, collected all our seats and went back to reserve the spot,
leaving Alex there to ward off any wannabe campers. We quickly packed
up
the van and moved the whole 5 kms down the road. This is an amazing
place, and it's totally free. Good on you Tasmania for understanding
the
worth of having campers in your town. In the few days we have been here
we have spent well over $400-00 in groceries, fuel, haircuts and other
bits and pieces. Multiply that by the hundreds of free campers along
this stretch and a lot of money is coming to town. You seriously do not
have to be a rocket scientist to see the benefits. If only the east
coast of mainland Aust. had the same mentality, maybe some of the
smaller towns
may actually prosper instead of doing the exact opposite. We also
discovered the other day, purely by accident that the toilet block at
the marina in St. Helens has free, very hot showers, so each afternoon,
in we went and
spend as much time as we liked cleaning all the dirt off.
Free water filling station
How good is
that. Then we discovered another little St. Helens gem.
On the
road in
from all the free camps the council has installed a water filling
station. I kid you not. They have widened the road so you can pull in
and
have two taps so you can fill up your caravan. And guess what, all
free. They even widened the other side of the road so you can do a
U-turn. It just keeps getting better. Wednesday we stayed put at our
seaside campsite for a day of
schoolwork and I did some maintenance. It was a beautiful sunny day
and a classroom with the best view in Australia. In the afternoon
the wind picked up to gale force and we thought we would be bunkered
down for the remainder of the day, but 2 hours later, someone hit the
switch and it just stopped, just in time for a nice sunset stroll along
the beach.
Thursday 24th - As sensational as this place is we do need to move on
or
we will still be in Tasmania in September. We did some last minute
sightseeing out to Binalong Bay and Dora Point campground before
heading into St. Helens to fill up with water and all have a hot
shower,
before moving a little more south. One of the great things about Tassie
is that your daily driving is often less than 50 kms so it doesn't
matter how late you get away with you still arriving at your
destination at a reasonable time.
Now here is chalk and cheese. Only 75 kms down the road is Bicheno. I
was actually looking forward to seeing this place for some reason, must
be the posh name. We
arrived mid-afternoon and the first thing we noticed was that there
were no caravans or campervans to be seen, and no parking provided for
big rigs. As we left St. Helens today
after our shower we would have seen 30 or more caravans or campervans,
most in
the marina carpark. The streets and shops were busy and the place was
buzzing.
Bicheno - would have been a nice
place to stay
if they
were more friendly.
Then we went to
the Bicheno Tourist Information Centre to find a very unhelpful woman
behind
the counter who was more interested in attending to her child than
helping me. There are no free camping spots at all in Bicheno, in fact
there are
'No Camping' signs everywhere. The streets were empty, the carparks
empty and I imagine so were the shops. I am guessing that one of the
caravan park owners is on the council, in fact I would bet on it.
(We're not opposed to caravan parks, but the choice was very limited
and unappealing.) The
only option she gave us was a national park about 15 kms away with no
campsites but we could camp in the carpark. Now you're spoiling us! So
off to the Douglas Apsley National Park. It was actually rather nice
and we
found a good spot in the carpark. We were the only people there. What
an amazing difference! I would estimate that in all the free
camps close to St. Helens there would be well over 300 campers. In
Bicheno,
just us. What must that be doing to the economy of this town. My
advice, skip Bicheno, have a look around but move on. I don't think
they like trailer trash. They must be too posh!!!
Friday 25th - we had planned to go to a nature park today as Harry is
desperate
to see a Tasmanian Devil. Well unfortunately it was raining when we
woke so that was off the agenda. To be honest I was actually happy as I
had had a terrible night's sleep. Maybe it was because we were
miles from nowhere in the middle of the bush totally on our own. I did
wake up about midnight when a car drove in and drove out. Why would you
do that in the middle of the night? I mentioned in the morning that I
had heard this car and why would someone drive all the way out here at
that time of night?
Harry pipes up - 'Ivan Malat'. Where the hell did he get that from? We
all
laughed, kind of!!!!! We packed up and headed to Bicheno to go to the
laundromat, get water and get a few groceries. My opinion of this town
has not changed but the little local laundromat is sensational. Fully
staffed with ladies who will actually put your washing on for you and
then throw it in the dryer for no extra charge. Maybe they should run
for
Mayor. The town might actually progress. After our domestic morning it
was off to Freycinet National Park and to the Friendly Beaches (north
campground). It is only 25 kms from that town I refuse to ever mention
again
and is a great spot right on the beach, good dunnies and nice private
campsites. All the books say it is only for small rigs but that is a
load
of 'Old Cobblers'. Plenty of room, don't believe the book.
Tasmanian
Devils
-
East
Coast
Natureworld
And
a
few
more
animals
at
East
Coast
Natureworld
I think I can see it!!
Saturday
26th we woke to a beautiful sunny day so off to East Coast Natureworld.
This place gets good write-ups and although a little daggy and
in need of a few bucks being spent on it (and it is for sale) we had a
great day. They have plenty of Tassie Devils that we were able to get
very up-close and personal with. We witnessed their daily feeding and
realised Harry is
not the messiest eater around.
These guys have absolutely no table
manners and carry on like a bunch of adolescents at a party. They bite,
snarl and attack each other as it is every devil for itself. They
have an active breeding program (as do most of the nature parks around
the state) which is very important for the ongoing
existence of the devil as the ones in the wild are slowly being wiped
out by a viral cancer that is passed on by saliva called Devil Facial
Tumor Disease (DFTD).
For further info on DFTD click here
. This is a nasty
disease that they believe will eventually kill off all the devils in
the wild. The virus only lives in living devils and not in dead tissue,
bone or hair. It is thought that when all the devils in the wild die
out, so will the disease. Then the plan would be to re-populate with
disease free stock from nature parks around the state. It all sounds
very grim. The only other hope is that the devils start to develop some
immunity to the virus-causing cancer but that is not happening so far.
The nature park also had plenty of other animals that kept us amused
for
most of the day.
Friendlies Beach
- why do our feet get so dirty?? And yes we had showered!
Sunday we had a lazy morning, packed up and moved a few kms
down the
road to the Freycinet National Park campground. We have been looking
foward to coming here as they have hot showers, running water and power
all for $16-00 a night. As it has been so cool we have been on
occasions only having a shower every second night. By the time evening
comes around you are really keen to get under that water. We originally
booked for two nights and then extended for another three. That will
give us a nice balance of sightseeing and a bit of schoolwork,
downloading videos and catching up on some video type work, like this
webpage.
Cape Tourville looking out towards Wineglass Bay
We arrived before lunch, set up and as it was sunny,
sunny,
sunny
we
decided
to
walk
back
up
to
the
lookout
over
Wineglass
Bay to
see it in a different light. It was nice and bright and did look a bit
different. We then did the short boardwalk around Cape Tourville which
is perched on the edge of a very high cliff overlooking the entrance to
Wineglass Bay. You also walk up to the lighthouse and then it's a short
walk
back to the car.
Freycinet National Park - campground,
Cape
Tourville
and
Wineglass
Bay
The boys worked really hard on their schoolwork while we
were
there and have
completely caught up. That was quite an effort as Alex only received
half of his books last week and is still waiting on one more, and we
are
now
into week 6 of the school year. Keeping up with the work rate guide
should be easy now. We did a few other drives to Bluestone Bay and
Sleepy Bay. Sleepy Bay, which is on the way to Cape Tourville is very
much worthy of a visit. We also had afternoon tea at Freycinet
Lodge
which is in the national park. This is a private resort that
looks very nice, has great views, a couple of dining options, one of
which is a well priced bistro and a great bar with open fires. It is
nice to actually have an accommodation option within a national park,
other than a tent.
So that is it for February. We have been very busy and will be getting
even more so. We had planned not to book our return boat trip back to
the mainland but the boat is booking out fast. If you just have a car
and camper or wind-up Jayco (less than 2.1 metres high), you can go any
day of the week. If you are
long and high as we are (over 2.1 metres high), your options are
limited. I rang the Spirit of
Tasmania office in Devonport and she strongly suggested that we book a
date or we may miss out and be stuck here. April is busy due to Easter
and the school holidays and May is even busier because all the
Tasmanians head north away from the cold. So book we did for the
2nd May which will give us exactly 12 weeks in Tassie. While that may
sound like a long time, there is a lot to see. We are thinking by then
the cold will drive us out anyway. So now we have a timeline. That all
sounds a bit 'normal' to me, can't have too much of that in our lives.
One more thing. You may remember from the January update I mentioned
those four guys from NSW who were kayaking down the west coast of
Tassie
from Devonport to Hobart. Well, they all made it with no major dramas.
They ended up only making it to Cockle Creek which is very close to
Hobart as they were running out of time. They were paddling for just
over 28 days. An amazing effort and a great personal achievement.
Congratulations guys!
Until next month.
Another 'Harry Moment' - Harry
was doing his schoolwork the other day and was working his little guts
out. Chris asked why all of a sudden he was working so well. His
response - 'Because I don't want to go home.' Now there's a boy after
my
own heart.